Sword Beach
We
were hitting the last few days in Normandy and we still had a lot to cram in and see. Luckily the major
areas that could have taken time like Bayeux and Pegasus Bridge we had done before, so we decided to limit what we saw at
these sites. So when we reached Bayeux it was a situation where we totally missed the Tapestry (and if
you know your stuff, it’s NOT a tapestry, it is an embroidery and you would have lost points on QI)
But
we headed to the CWGC site instead, passing the huge Eisenhower memorial on the way – With Steve leaning out of the
car window as Lance drove to get a picture.The Bayeux War Cemetery is the largest Second World War cemetery of Commonwealth soldiers in France, located in Bayeux, Normandy. The cemetery contains 4,648 burials, mostly of the Invasion of Normandy. Opposite this cemetery stands the Bayeux Memorial which commemorates more than 1,800
casualties of the Commonwealth forces who died in Normandy and have no known grave.
The cemetery grounds were assigned to the United Kingdom in perpetuity by France in recognition of the sacrifices made by the British Empire in the defense and liberation of France during the war. In addition to the Commonwealth burials,
there are 366 graves of German soldiers.The Bayeux Memorial was erected in white stone facing the cemetery. The Latin epitaph
along the frieze of the memorial is reference to William the Conqueror and the Invasion of England in 1066. The translation reads: “We, once conquered by William, have now set free the Conqueror’s
native land.” A bit of a two fingered back-handed compliment to the last invader of the UK we think....
On this memorial are engraved the
names of the 1,808 men of the Commonwealth who died in the Battle of Normandy and who have no known grave. The Bayeux Memorial
in Normandy, France commemorates 194 Canadian servicemen and women. Among the names are the 189 men of the 43rd Divisional Reconnaissance Regiment who were aboard
the ill-fated Derrycunihy.
On the night of 23 July 1944, the ship was anchored off the coast of Ouistreham (Sword Beach), and the regiment was waiting to disembark. At 0800 the ship’s engines detonated a submerged
German mine, ripping the hull apart. This was the biggest British loss of life off the Normandy beaches. The 189 missing men’s
names are engraved on the wall in Bayeux
As part of the Hill 112 and
Hill 262 battles in Normandy we visited these two hills, sadly we again skirted around 262 as we did not have time to give
it justice – again it’s a “Must see” for another year – Most of the Falaise Pocket will be!
But we visited the Polish
War cemetery Grainville-Langannerie Urville is the only Polish World War II cemetery in France, and within its quite confines are 696 graves.
The
majority of the fallen interred were part of Major-General Maczeks 1st Armored Division, who entered the battle of Normandy
in August 1944, as well as other Polish soldiers who died in other parts of France, fighting for its liberation. A V shaped
monument, on the pinnacle of which sits the Polish emblem of the eagle, dominates the cemetery. The gates
to the Cemetery are nice with the regiment badges of the various Polish units.
We headed to the Canadian Cemetery at Bretteville-sur-Laize.
Bretteville-sur-Laize was created as a permanent resting place for Canadian soldiers who had been temporarily interred
in smaller plots close to where they fell. At the time of the cemetery's creation, France granted Canada a perpetual concession
to the land occupied by the cemetery. The graves contain 2793 soldiers from the 2nd Canadian Corps, 91 of them unknown, and
79 RCAF airmen killed in the Battle of Normandy.A large number of dead in the cemetery were killed in the battle for the Falaise Pocket in August 1944. Canadians killed earlier in the Battle of Normandy were interred in the nearby
Bény-sur-Mer Canadian War Cemetery.
Leading to a notorious battle
– Hill 112 or “Operation Jupiter” was the next port of call on the NMBS itinerary. Operation
Jupiter was an attack launched by the British Second Army's VIII Corps on 10 July 1944. The objective of the attack was to capture the villages of Baron-sur-Odon, Fontaine-Étoupefour, Chateau de Fontaine and recapture Hill 112.
Following the capture of
these objectives the Corps would then capture Éterville and the village of Maltot and the ground up to the River Orne. Tanks from the 4th Armored Brigade, supported by infantry, would then advance through the captured ground and secure several further
villages to the west of the River Orne.
It was hoped that all objectives could be captured by 0900 hours on the first day following
which, elements of the 4th Armored Brigade, could start their attacks. The operation was initially very successful however
heavy fighting for Hill 112 went on all day and the village of Maltot changed hands several times.
The first battle for Hill 112 was
fought at the end of Operation Epsom, when the tanks of 11th Armored Division broke out from a bridgehead established by the 2nd Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders at Tourmauville. Hill 112 was an intermediate objective on the way to the River Orne crossings but such was the German reaction that the 23rd Hussars were only able to capture and hold the hill with difficulty.
Hill 112, at the end of a narrow salient, was held
by the infantry of The Rifle Brigade. Here they remained under heavy shell and mortar fire until, warned by Ultra decryptions of German radio traffic that II SS Panzer Corps was arriving and about to attack, Montgomery ordered them to withdraw and the hill to be abandoned to the Germans.
The British commanders, led by
Montgomery, intended to hold the approximately seven German Panzer Divisions, on their front. While the British held the panzers, the Americans captured Cherbourg and broke out from the beachhead. The American objective was feasible because the Americans had
only the equivalent of one-and-a-half Panzer divisions facing them throughout most of the campaign.
The main attack on Hill 112 was
strategically designed to fix the German panzers and tactically to gain 'elbow room' in what was still a tight beachhead.
The 43rd (Wessex) Infantry Division was to attack positions held by 10th SS Panzer Division in what was an extremely fierce battle. The German defenders survived naval bombardment, air attack
and artillery fire but held their ground, crucially supported by Tiger tanks from the 102 SS Heavy Panzer Battalion. These heavy tanks armed with the 88 mm gun had both greater protection and firepower and outclassed the opposing British Churchill and Sherman tanks.
Even though the hill was not captured and was left as a no-man's-land between the two armies,
important surrounding villages had been taken. Above all, however, the 9th SS Panzer Division, which had been in the process of moving out of the line to form an operational reserve, was brought
back to contain the British. Therefore, on the strategic level Operation Jupiter was a significant success.
It was not until American troops
eventually started to break out from the Normandy lodgment, as Operation Cobra developed momentum, in August 1944, that the Germans withdrew from Hill 112 and the 53rd (Welsh) Division occupied the feature with barely a fight. Casualties during that period amounted to approximately
25,000 British troops and 500 British tanks. The 43rd Wessex sustained 7,000 casualties in the 12 days from 10 to 22 July.
We headed next to area where
the Panzers blocked the crossing over the river Odon
The VIIIth Corps objective under General O’ Connor
was to seize intact the bridges over the river Odon in the first step of the Operation
Epsom. On 26 June the Allied forces launched
the attack in the rain.
The 227th Brigade of the 15th Scottish Infantry Division and tanks of the 23rd Hussars took Grainville and
Colleville pushing back the German infantry. But the Scots were stopped by counter-attacks of the 12nd SS-Panzer-Division
tanks. German commandment sent panzer reinforcement to face the VIIIth Corps: Panther of the 2nd Panzer-Division and Tiger
of the SS-Panzer-Abteilung 101.
On 27 June the Allied renewed the attack, the German tanks destroyed many British tanks, but they
were sent on the battlefield just one tank or in small groups against greater strength. The war of attrition was more and
more favourable to the Allied forces. The 2nd Battalion Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders assaulted toward Tourville. At the
beginning of the afternoon an intact bridge was captured over the river Odon. The bridgehead was strengthened with tanks of
the 23rd Hussars then with the 159e Brigade at the end of the day.
We parked up on the bridge and passing French motorists, bibbed at us. Lance
tutted loudly.
We finally headed to the almost yin and yang of Commonwealth war grave sites. The large Hotton leg Bagues CWGC site
has 1036 graves and most are from the battles around Caen. The Allied offensive in north-western Europe
began with the Normandy landings of 6 June 1944. Most of the burials in Hottot-les-Bagues War Cemetery were brought in from
the surrounding district, where there was much heavy fighting through June and July 1944 as Commonwealth forces tried to press
on from Bayeux in an encircling movement to the south of Caen. The cemetery contains 1,005 Commonwealth burials of the Second
World War, 56 of them unidentified, and 132 German graves. There are 21 Special Memorials within the above, bearing the inscription
"Buried near this spot"
We then found the smallest CWGC site in France – which with so many sites
in the Somme, is quite astounding. Jerusalem is a tiny hamlet near the village of Chouain. The area was
the scene of bitter fighting when a German armoured column sought to retake Bayeux shortly after its liberation. The cemetery
was begun on 10 June and is one of the smallest Commonwealth war cemeteries. Jerusalem War Cemetery contains 47 burials, one
of them unidentified, and one Czech grave.
The evening twilight was coming and a beer had everyone’s name on it, so we headed back
to the gite
The next morning the happy
French bell ringers did their work and Steve’s mood was grumpy, well more grumpy than usual. We set
off for the last trip in Normandy and the British beaches at Sword. Stuart wasn’t feeling too well
so had what we call a “Man down day” or a “Stuart Day”, so the rest headed towards Sword.
We passed through a small little place called Douvres-la-Délivrande, During the Second World War, Douvres-la-Délivrande was the site of an important German air-detection radar installation, part of the strategic Atlantic Wall defenses. Completed in the autumn of 1943, the station was split into two zones by the road from
Douvres to Bény-sur-Mer; and heavily fortified with bunkers, machineguns and minefields.
The Northern zone held a large
Siemens (another German company who did well out of WWII) ‘Wasserman’ long-range radar and
associated structures. The larger Southern zone had two intermediate-range Freya and two short-range Würzburg Riese radars; as well as command and infirmary bunkers, garages and artillery placements. Some 230 Luftwaffe personnel were based at the station, including electricians, engineers and 36 air controllers.
At
11 pm on the night of 5/6 June 1944, the Allies launched intensive jamming of radar frequencies which blinded the entire German radar network
from Cherbourg to Le Havre. On the morning of the 6th the antennas at Douvres-la-Délivrande were rendered inoperative
by Allied naval artillery bombardment.
Canadian troops who had landed nearby on 'Juno Beach' isolated the station but the Germans successfully defended it for 12 days, awaiting a counter-attack
by Panzers; on one occasion it was resupplied with food via a nocturnal paratroop mission from Mont-de-Marsan.
On 17 June, a massive offensive
by the British 41 Commando, Royal Marines - preceded by an artillery bombardment and supported by mine-clearing and anti-bunker tanks of
79th Armored Division - secured the surrender of the garrison. We by-passed the radar place and took a few pics, but we could
not be fussed with another museum and mannequins (although we made the faux pas later).
Just outside the village
we came across a small baker’s shop. Well the breakfast of cheesy croissants was wonderful. We cannot
remember the name but it is right next to the Church and it’s scrummy.
We headed to Lion Sur Mer. Lion Sur Mer is one of the
landing beaches in Sword sector. On 6 June 1944, the 4th Special Service Brigade landed on Sword Beach in the second wave. The 41st Royal Marine Commando,
under Lieutenant-colonel Gray, slammed ashore aboard six Landing Craft Infantry on Queen Beach. The Commandos were assigned
the task to take Lion-sur-Mer. Several officers were killed on the beach. The Commandos reached the coastal road and moved
toward their objectives. But in front of Lion-sur-Mer, they encountered the resistance of strongpoint coded “Trout”
- Wiederstand Nest 21 for the Germans.
A company of the South Lancashire came to reinforce the 41st Royal Marine
Commando without success. Meanwhile, on Queen Beach the tanks werre entangled into a jam and could not land, moreover Brigadier
Cunningham commanding the 9th Brigade was wounded. The WN 21 was vanquished on 7 June by the 41st Royal Marine Commando, who
made the junction with the N°46 Commando.
The next beach along
Colleville-Montgomery (Colleville was called Colleville-sur-Orne at the time of the war, the “Monty” add is a tribute) is From La Brèche d’Hermanville to Ouistreham,
Sword Beach was the eastern zone of the three beaches where the British troops were landing. The German units that occupy
the defenses were second rank troops, like the "Osttruppen". At 7 am the British tanks and infantry slammed ashore.
All the German strong points had not been destroyed by the air bombing and the navy shelling. The British suffered
heavy losses in some sectors of the beaches. Around 9 am they began to advance inland, bypassing pockets of resistance. The
1st Suffolk Regiment landed at 9:30 am, then moved toward Colleville-sur-Orne and liberated the town. The 1st Suffolk seized
a German artillery position, and ran up against another. They were kept in check by the solid fortifications of Hillmann,
where was set up the headquarter of a regiment of the 716th German Infantry Division. The British overcame the German defenses
of Hillmann around 10 pm, with the support of the Hussars and the 22nd Dragoons tanks.
In 1944 Ouistreham was a town situated just behind
Riva Bella on the Norman coast. Close to the mouth of the River Orne and the Caen Canal the area was strongly defended. The
177 Frenchmen of the 1st Battalion of Fusiliers Marines Commandos landed there on 6 June 1944. The French under Commandant
Kieffer were integrated to the N°4 British Commando. They were granted the honour to set foot on Normandy soil in the
first wave. The Commandos left about forty casualties on the beach and moved inland. Commandant Kieffer was wounded but went
on with his troops. Troop 1 suffered losses in front of the casino strongpoint. They obtained support of a tank of the 13/18th
Hussars of the 27th Armoured Brigade. The German blockhouse was neutralized Ouistreham was liberated at the end of the morning.
We decided to visit the Atlantic wall museum, the blurb was okay - This museum is located in a 17 height meters bunker; it was a control firing casemate of the
Atlantic Wall. It revives the atmosphere of the fighting’s through reconstitution of rooms with material and uniform
suited dummies.
On last of the five floors, one can look at the landscape through a German rangefinder, and
some heavy material is exposed outside. Okay it mentioned Dummies, can’t be that bad? Could it?
Well the cheeky sods are the only museum who doesn’t give you a discount on the Normandy pass.
The
Normandie Pass costs only 1€ when you pay the full price for an entry to one of the partner Museums, and then entitles
the holder to decent discounts at over 40 other sites of historical and cultural interest around Lower Normandy. The Pass
includes entry to over 26 sites associated with the D-Day beaches, and so anyone wishing to visit as many of these a possible
can save up to 50€, but alas, the Atlantic wall museum doesn’t. Then we saw the dummies. Examples of the dummies
are below, so choose whether you’d spend 8€, we will never again!
| No wonder the SS lost the war ! |
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We drove to
Pegasus Bridge and seeing Steve, Gel and Lance had been twice and Kev once we missed out the museum and settled for The Gondree Cafe. As
a four-year-old girl, Arlette Gondree welcomed the Allied forces into her family's Normandy cafe, the first building in
occupied Europe to be liberated from the Nazis. We had never been in the Cafe, when we went in 2004, the
place was crammed with the Vets as it was the 60th Anniversary of D-Day.
The place is a shrine to all things Pegasus, Airborne and Ox and Bucks’
and Kevin, Gerry and Lance sat down outside to await the beer and Steve went inside to get said beer. Yes
the place is an Aladdin’s cave and Steve, started to take pics. Well Arlette Gondree is no longer
the sweet 4 year old, but a right old matriarch and gave Steve a bollocking for taking pics.
Steve was not best pleased, being grumpy from bell ringers and shite mannequins so he stormed out cursing.
The boys sat and looked at him as Steve protested, but they were sat down and they wanted beer, so Steve had to go back in
and buy beer from Arlette Gondree. She states no pictures as a tribute to the men, who died there, and Steve can understand
this, and she sells postcards – but I suppose you have to respect her decisions and the reasons why, although in fighting
over the Cafe Gondree are documented on the internet, and it’s a shame that something that is a memorial and a tribute
has caused problems and controversy. After a beer we walked over the road to a souvenir shop.
Sadly tacky.
Located at the far eastern end of the Normandy coastline stands the small village of
Merville-Francville and in 1944 it marked the limit of the D-Day Invasion beaches. To the west, for over 18 miles, the British
and Canadian 3rd Divisions were due to begin landing at around 7.30am on the 6th June, and it was vital that once ashore,
the landing forces had enough time to consolidate and then expand the bridgehead. Therefore to protect the eastern flank from
the bulk of the German tank strength which was situated south of Paris, the 6th Airborne Division was to be dropped to act
as a buffer.
This gave the Division many important tasks for D-Day, but its primary objectives were the capture,
intact, of the bridges over the Caen Canal and the River Orne at Benouville, and the silencing of a battery of four concrete
gun emplacements, near the village of Merville, 3 miles east of Ouistreham. It was believed that they contained guns of 155mm
calibre and could therefore pose a serious threat to the landing beaches.
The 9th Battalion under
the command of Lt Col Terence Otway stormed this formidable position in the early hours of June 6th. Only 150 men out of the
original 650 made it to the RDV. Yet, despite the odds the battery was captured. There is a cracking museum
there now and well worth ganders. The last stop on the tour of Normandy was Ranville, before we headed back to the gite
for one last time and it was quite poignant. This was part of the area of the first attack on D-Day and
also allegedly the first allied casualty. At approx. 00.15hrs on D-Day, three Horsa gliders landed to capture Pegasus.
Few minutes later Lt. Danny Brotheridge led his platoon to attack the bridge. Danny was
shot in the securing of the bridges, and died of his wounds. Lieutenant Danny Brotheridge who led the attack was one of the unlucky
heroes who gave his life for his country. He became the first Allied soldier to be killed on D-day, although this has been
disputed, as some men drowned when the gliders landed in the marshes, but Brotheridge died of his wounds and was the first
to be Killed in action.
Private Denis "Eddie" Edwards, No.25 Platoon, "D" Company, 2nd Oxfordshire
and Buckinghamshire Light Infantry, wrote of the incident.
"Charging forward,
we reached the wide steel bridge, letting fly with rifles and automatics, and threw grenades, shouting at the top of our voices
to frighten the German defenders and to boost our own morale. An enemy machine gun on the far side of the bridge chattered
into life. We returned fire and kept going, with our Platoon Commander Lieutenant Brotheridge, leading the way. The machine gun was firing long bursts as we charged, and Brotheridge, who was at the very front
of the charge, was hit and fell to the ground mortally wounded. Later, when we heard what had happened, every one of us was
really distressed that Lieutenant Brotheridge should have been killed in that way at the very start of our mission. He was
a man for whom we had the greatest respect. Like all our airborne officers, he had never asked us to do anything that he would
not do himself. As we neared the far side of the bridge, still shouting, firing our weapons and lobbing hand grenades,
the Germans jumped to their feet and ran for their lives, scattering in all directions. Relief, exhilaration, incredulity
- I experienced all these feelings upon realizing that we had taken the bridge."
After a wander around Ranville
and a bite to eat, we headed for the Gite, and to pack.
| Some of the Men of Merville |
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